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UNDERSTANDING PREDICTING RESILIENCY OF BARRIER ISLANDS


Research by Dr. George Voulgaris
Department of Geological Sciences Marine Science Program

The impact of Hurricane Katrina on the Gulf Coast created a rare opportunity to investigate the bathymetric change and erosion resulting from an extreme hurricane event on coastal environments similar to those found along the coast of South Carolina. University of South Carolina researchers set out to examine the effect of hurricanes on the nearshore and the inner shelf of a transgressive shoreline.

The study area was the 21 kilometer-long Caminada-Moreau headland located along the south-central Louisiana coastal zone, consisting of uniform fine to medium quartz sand. Along part of the headland, detached breakwaters protect highly erosional areas of the shoreline. As part of the CRISIS program USC researchers collected onshore (beach morphology) and offshore (bathymetric and shallow geophysical survey) data after the 2005 hurricane season documenting the combined effect of Hurricanes Katrina and Rita.

USC researchers analyzing the data from these surveys are focused on answering four questions: 1) Do hurricanes create return flows during the recess of the storm surge that create morphological features such as Scoured Rippled Depressions? 2) What is the expected maximum landward retreat of a shoreline in response to a major hurricane? 3) What volume and what type of sediment are transported offshore during a major storm impact? and 4) What morphological changes occurred along the unprotected versus the protected zones of the headland?

Researcher data attempted to answer these questions with beach topographic profiles and offshore bathymetric, seismic and side-scan sonar images. Researchers have concluded that extreme erosion of the sea bed in response to the hurricanes occurred in areas where the bed had been disturbed previously. There are indications that more sediment was transported by strong alongshore flows in response to the strong winds during the hurricane period than during the recess of the storm surge waters. Further, researchers determined that oil and gas pipelines on the sea floor are subject to damage during the passage of extreme hurricanes. Finally, researchers concluded that undeveloped barrier islands respond much better to hurricane forces than developed ones.

Comparison of these data to surveys conducted before the 2005 hurricane season provided an ideal opportunity for researchers to assess the morphological evolution associated with tropical cyclone impacts and will help researchers predict the impact of hurricanes. The results will also benefit on-going USC research to understand the origin of sea bed features called Rippled Scoured Depressions that have been associated with beach erosion off barrier islands. Outcomes will also contribute to understanding the resiliency of the coastal zone and assist in designing the policies needed in the case of an extreme hurricane impact on South Carolina's developed barrier islands. Moreover, the study offers insight into improving methods of securing underwater oil and gas pipelines so that no disruption to supply or spills occur due to failures associated with hurricanes.

USC researchers have also established new research collaborations with scientists from the University of New Orleans that will lead to new scientific endeavors. A female undergraduate student has been involved in analyzing the data, an experience that has led her to a decision to become further involved in science by seeking a Master’s degree at USC. USC researchers are presenting findings at Ocean Sciences 2006.

Biography

Dr. George Voulgaris is an associate professor at the Marine Science Program and the Department of Geological Sciences. He is a coastal geologist with a Ph.D. in Oceanography from the University of Southampton, United Kingdom, where he studied the response of beaches and inner-shelf to wave dynamics. He is the director of the Coastal Processes and Sediment Dynamics Laboratory that consists of two post-doctoral research associates, one technician and four Ph.D.-seeking students. He is leading a real-time coastal wave-monitoring program funded by ONR and has a number of active research projects funded by NOAA, NSF, ONR and the South Carolina Sea Grant Consortium. His publication record includes more than 50 peer-reviewed papers in journals and conference proceeding volumes, 60 published abstracts, and 24 technical reports.

Research Team/Collaborators:

Scott White, Department of Geological Sciences, as well as Dr. Mark Kulp from the University of New Orleans. Part of the data collection was completed with the assistance of RPI Louisiana Inc., a small environmental company based in New Orleans. Historical data were provided by the Louisiana Department of Natural resources.